ELBRUS (5642m), NORTH ROUTE

ELBRUS (5642m), NORTH ROUTE

Outside Himalaya


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Mt. Elbrus is the highest peak in the rugged Caucasian Range which straddles Asia and Europe. It is also the highest mountain of the European continent and hence one of the Seven Summits (Highest peak of every continent). There are 2 popular routes to climb Elbrus – the standard and the northern route. This itinerary is designed for climbing Elbrus from the North, where there are no hotels, restaurants, cable-cars or snow-cats to help us in the ascent. This route will be loved by nature-lovers and is infact the original route by which this mountain was climbed ages ago. The last mile to the roadhead at Dzhily-Su from the spa-town of Kislovodsk (about 90kms) is not asphalted and hence only off-road vehicles are used. We have plenty of acclimatization days and a buffer day for another summit attempt in case of bad weather. Previous mountain experience is not necessary to climb Mount Elbrus. You’ll be trained to walk in crampons, to use the ice-axes and to get over the crevasses in ropes. Elbrus is an extinct volcano, having its last eruption around 50 AD, and its crater (300-400 meters in diameter) is now filled with ice and snow. The mountain has two main summits; the Western summit at 5642m and the Eastern summit at 5621m. The saddle between the two summits is at 5416m. The mountain has been mentioned in both Greek and Persian mythology. In Greek mythology, Zeus chained Prometheus to the mountain as punishment for stealing fire from Zeus and sharing it with mankind. The name also has Persian origins, a derivation of Harā Bərəzaitī, a mountain in Persian mythology.

Itinerary

Show Detailed Itinerary
Fly to Moscow. A representative will meet you at the arrival hall and a group transfer would be done to the hotel in the city centre. Post lunch we go for a short walking tour of the iconic Red Square & Kremlin. Overnight hotel.
Fly to Mineralnye Vody. A representative will meet you at the arrival hall and a group transfer would be done at 14:30 Hrs. From the airport we drive to Dzhily-Su drive to the town of Kislovodsk, which is a spa city in Stavropol Krai in the North Caucasus region of Russia which is located between the Black and Caspian Seas. We spend the rest of the day sorting our gear and preparing for the climb. Overnight hotel in Kislovodsk.
After Breakfast, we set of on the 4 hr drive into the heart of the lush foothills of the lower Caucasus to Mt. Elbrus Base Camp (2500 m/ 8,064'). Once we establish our Basecamp, we take a short acclimatization hike to explore the remote valley and stretch our legs after the many long hours of travel.Overnight at Base Camp.
An important day for acclimatization. We'll ascend slowly to 3100m to see some fascinating stone mushrooms almost 5m high. It is a good place for rock climbing. Descend to the base camp. Overnight in the Base Camp.
We pack up a portion of our supplies and make a ferry to High Camp (3800 m/ 12,300'). After depositing our cache and enjoying the views, we descend back to Base Camp for the night. Overnight in the Base Camp.
We make an early start and traverse the narrow gorge to get out of the high grasslands and into the Alpine zone, affording stunning views of the glaciers of Mt. Elbrus and the lower steppes of the Caucasus to the north. The last stretch of the climb leads through the jumbled rock moraine along side the Mikelchiran Glacier before cresting a steep pitch and putting us at High Camp. Overnight at High Camp.
Acclimatization hike to the Lenz Rocks (4800 m/ 15,200'). The route brings us onto some moderate glacial terrain. We will rope up in order to protect ourselves from the several crevasses we must cross.Overnight at High Camp.
Relax day. Final preparations are made for Summit Day. Overnight at High Camp.
Summit Day! After an alpine start we climb from the High Camp across the upper portion of the Mikelchiran Glacier until we reach the Saddle at 5300 m/ 17,700'. Mount Elbrus has two large summit domes and the Saddle separates the East Summit from the West Summit. Both are comparable in size and height. After enjoying the summit and its impressive views of the Caucasus mountain range, we descend back to our High Camp.
Today we breakdown our High Camp and descend back to Basecamp for the night. This day can also be used as an extra summit day in case we encounter bad weather or need additional time for acclimatization.
We'll drive to Kislovodsk where we will enjoy hot showers and a good night's sleep.Overnight hotel in Kislovodsk.
After breakfast we'll drive to the airport to be in time to check-in for the flight which departs around 12:35Hrs. Trip ends!

Trip Cost

On Request

START POINT TO END POINT , TWIN SHARING
TRIP COST INCLUDES
  • - Invitation letter for Russian visa
  • - Internal flights in Russia
  • - Local registration of your visa according to the Russian law
  • - Airport transfers in Moscow (pls note that we will club various arrivals and transfer min 2 people per transfer
  • - Group transportation from Mineralnye Vody to Kislovodsk and back. Please, note that our group transfer from the airport Mineralnye Vody on the 1st day is scheduled for 14:30. This means that you need to arrive before that time. On the last day we'll bring you to the airport to be in time to check-in for flight SU1305 which departs at 12:35. If your flight departs later you'll probably have to wait at the airport for some time or to order a private transportation. You'll also need a private transportation in case your flight departs before 12:35. Please, keep in mind that the way from Kislovodsk to the airport takes 1.5 hrs.
  • - Kislovodsk & Moscow - a 3* hotel, shared twin or triple accommodation with breakfast
  • - Base camp - tents, High Camp – huts
  • - Transfer Kislovodsk - Mount Elbrus and back
  • - Park fee
  • - All food on the mountain (cook services included)
  • - Guide. One guide for the group throughout the tour. One mountain guide for three-four people for the summit attempt (1/3-4 guide/client ratio)
  • - Porters for tents and food
  • - One summit attempt with guides
  • - Group equipment (ropes, ice screws etc)
  • - GST as applicable (Subject to change as per govt rules). 
TRIP COST EXCLUDES
  • - Lunches and dinners in Kislovodsk
  • - Hire of personal equipment (such as sleeping bag, boots, crampons etc.)
  • - Porter services for personal belongings. Food, gas, tents and public equipment will be carried by our porters. You will have to carry your personal belongings from the base camp up to the high camp. This will be done in two carries (Days 4 and 5). Normally, active acclimatization is very helpful and enhances your chances to reach the summit. But if you feel tired you can hire a porter for only 50 euros. You can make decision on the spot and ask your guide to find a porter before you leave the base camp.
  • - Single occupation in hotel or in tent. If you don't want to share your space with somebody you can pay 60 euro extra for hotel and 35 euro for tent and enjoy single accommodation.
  • - Private transportation from/to airport MRV. In case you arrive after 14:30 on the 1st day or need an individual transfer on the last day we'll arrange a taxi for you. That will cost 25EUR/ 35USD for 1 - 3 people by day time.
  • - Prescheduled return to Kislovodsk because of an illness or in case of successful climb when the reserve day was not used. This will raise some additional expenditure: Transportation. You can join any other group which occasionally leaves from the Base Camp for Kislovodsk. You will be charged 1000 - 1500 roubles per person. When there are no vehicles at the Base Camp but you still want to leave, you can order a car and that will cost 8000 roubles (200EUR/270USD).
  • - Accommodation. Our price includes only 2 nights at hotel in Kislovodsk: one each before and after the climb. If you return earlier you will have to pay self for additional nights at hotel. Besides, it can be difficult to find a free room in a mid-range hotel, especially in July and August. Prices start from 1000 to 6000 roubles for a single room.
  • - Accommodation in Moscow is only on your arrival in the country. The trip ends with departure transfer at Mineralnye airport. Most people find connecting flights from Moscow on their way out. If you need any services in Moscow on your return (airport transfers / hotel) you would need to request for it separately.

What to expect

On a Technical Trek the average day could involve more than 7 hrs of walking.  These trips might cover difficult and glaciated terrain where use of ropes and technical mountaineering equipment like crampons, harness, carabiners, descenders etc could come into play. On these trips one is required to stay at high altitudes for lengthy periods of time and hence  acclimatization is always a big concern. These treks can also throw a bit of surprise largely because of unpredictable nature of the terrain and the snow/ ice conditions in the high mountains and hence we always have a contingency day of two built into the plan.

These trips would last more than two weeks and go to wild, remote places completely cut off from civilization. Trekking peaks also come under the same category as the level of technicality required to climb a trekking peak is similar.

 

Elbrus Photo Album -​ 2014

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